The National Weather Service has issued a high surf and rip tide advisory, that is effect until Thursday evening. Waves are expected to reach 5 to 8 feet in height.
Increasing south and southeast swells from distant tropical storm Leslie will cause high surf to move into the south facing beaches.
The highest swells will move into the coast Wednesday morning and will continue Through at least Thursday.
If you do surf, there are no life guards on duty and conditions are considered dangerous.
What is a rip current?
A rip current, sometimes mistakenly called an undertow, is a strong but narrow current of water flowing from the beach to the surf zone. It can rapidly carry a swimmer into deeper water and exhaust an individual trying to swim against it.
If you are caught in a rip current:
- Swim parallel to the beach until out of its pull. Another means of escape for those who are good swimmers is to ride the current out beyond the surf zone where the rip current dissipates. Then swim toward shore outside the effect of the narrow rip current.
- Do not attempt to swim back to shore directly against the current. It can exhaust and drown even the strongest swimmer.
If you are on the beach:
- Heed the advice of the beach patrol and swim only at guarded beaches.
- Watch your children.
- Be especially cautious near piers and jetties where rip currents can be enhanced.
- Viewers of large surf should be in safe areas well away from possible splash over. Individual waves may be more than twice the significant wave height, which can sweep a person into the water from what may seem to be a safe viewing area.
- Falling into the turbulent and sometimes rocky waters can result in injury that reduces the chance of survival.